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Kenya- Still at the Heart of the African Safari Experience
Andrew Muigai
The popular image of safari, especially in the west, is inseparable from Kenya.
Earlier in the last century, gifted writers such as Ernest Hemingway and Karen
Blixen brought to life the vivid images and uplifting life experience that constitutes
a Kenyan safari. It is at this time that leading celebrities of the day such
as Teddy Roosevelt and Prince Edward traveled to Kenya on safari. And so the
safari gained a certain snob appeal. The famous went because it was expected
of them. And those on the make because the safari was part of the certification
they needed on the way up. If you want to take a peek into the mood and character
of the players at that time, read Hemingway's intriguing short story "The Short
Happy Life of Francis Macomber".
In our day however, a Kenya
safari is accessible to many more people. Despite competition from
other destinations, Kenya remains the heart of the African safari experience.
The magnificence and diversity of the wildlife and landscape is unsurpassed.
You are guaranteed to tick off the full roster of the big five -lion, buffalo,
leopard, rhino and elephant. Other less well-known but essential and chartered
members of the savannah ecosystem are also abundant. The landscape kaleidoscope
rolls out the magnificent rift valley, the central highlands, the savannah grasslands,
snow capped Mount Kenya and the desolate moonscape of the north. This is perhaps
why the experts advise all those faithful lovers of wildlife and nature that
at least once in their lifetime they must partake of a Kenyan safari.
Kenya has over 50 national parks and game reserves where wildlife is protected.
But as you already suspect, on the average safari you cannot hope to cover all
of them. It is therefore a good thing that you get very good value by visiting
only a few of them. This is unless of course you have a lot of time and can
afford to take off the beaten track. The most popular and from which those with
limited time and budget need to pick from are- Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Lake Nakuru,
Aberdares, Samburu and Tsavo. Top in the off-the-beaten track category for either
wildlife or back to nature activities are- Kakamega Forest, Marsabit, Meru,
Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon and Shimba Hills.
Maasai Mara is the big one. This is where you must go even when all the time
you can spare is two nights. This is mostly where all those wildlife videos
on Kenya are filmed. The Mara, as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve is commonly known,
is part of the ecosystem that includes the equally famous Serengeti of Tanzania.
Covering 320 square kilometers, it is nested in the southwestern corner of the
country. The Mara offers wildlife in such variety and abundance that it is difficult
to believe. On a two-night visit, I saw lions, rhinos, hippos, crocodiles, giraffe,
wildebeests, zebras, buffalo, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, buffalo,
leopard, nine kinds of antelopes and elephant. The birds are also in plenty
-secretary birds, cranes, stork, vultures and ostriches.
It is in the Mara that perhaps the most spectacular event of the natural world
takes place. I refer to the annual migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra
from the Serengeti in search of water and pasture. The timing of the phenomena
is conditional on the rains and occurs between June and August. The reverse
journey is usually taken in October. With or without the migration the Mara
has abundant numbers of resident animals and you are sure to have a good wildlife
viewing experience whatever time of the year you visit. If you have sufficient
funds, consider taking a balloon trip over the reserve. This popular and thoroughly
memorable ride usually commences before dawn and includes a champagne breakfast.
The Mara is 5 hours from Nairobi by road and 45 minutes by light aircraft.
Amboseli National Park sits on the lower slopes of mighty Kilimanjaro whose
peak is across the border in Tanzania. It is quite an experience to see the
Kilimanjaro hovering above the clouds in an early morning. As the keen photography
enthusiast can already imagine, the mountain gives a dramatic backdrop for animal
pictures. Amboseli is renowned for its huge elephant herds. You will also see
buffalo, black rhino, zebra, wildebeest and other plain animals. Lions and other
cats can be seen but are less plentiful here than in the Mara. The park is 3
hours from Nairobi by road and can be approached through Namanga, the border
post between Kenya and Tanzania.
Lake Nakuru's claim to fame is anchored on its flamingo's and the over 400 species
of birds found here. The lake itself is a soda lake on the floor of the rift
valley. The sight of the at times millions of flamingos is quite spectacular.
From a distance the lake appears ringed in pink. Lake Nakuru is also host to
a sanctuary for the endangered black and white rhino. Lions, Rothschild's giraffe,
buffalo and baboons are all residents here. The park is the most accessible
of Kenya's bigger parks and is only two hours from Nairobi by road.
At the same distance from Nairobi as Lake Nakuru is the Aberdares National Park.
The park has a diverse topography that includes waterfalls, rain forests and
the rivers that supply water to Nairobi's millions. The flora and fauna is quite
unique and is not found elsewhere in the country, expect on Mount Kenya. Leopard,
elephant, rhino and the rare bongo can all be found here. But dense vegetation
and inclement weather makes it difficult to spot animals. You are however guaranteed
to see some animals especially elephants and buffalos at the floodlit waterholes
of the two famous tree hotels, The Ark and Treetops.
Students of the history of the British royal family will recall that it was
at the Treetops in 1952, where the then Princess Elizabeth was staying on honeymoon
when her father, King George VI, died. She descended from Treetops to assume
the backbreaking role of presiding over the far-flung dominions and colonies
of the empire. If you stay at the Treetops you are bound to meet with some of
her fans.
Though not as famous as the Mara, Samburu National Park is another wildlife
haven. Here you will spot lions, elephants, cheetahs and the elusive leopard.
Some animals are unique to this northern park: Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe,
kudu and gerenuk. You will find the semiarid landscape quite dramatic. On your
trip to Samburu, you may also want to take in the nearby Shaba and Buffalo Springs
game reserves. In addition, this is the place to take a camel safari. Samburu
is three hours from Nairobi by road.
Tsavo is so huge, all of 20,000 sq km, that it is administered as two units:
Tsavo West and Tsavo East. This is the park that is closest to Mombasa at the
coast. The park is three and a half hours away from Nairobi by road. You will
find large herds of elephant, especially in Tsavo East. Tsavo West is filled
with crocodiles, vervet monkeys, antelope, baboons, giraffes and hippos. It
is in Tsavo that poachers were most successful in their bloody racket and this
saw a dramatic fall in elephant population. The good guys have in recent years
gained the upper hand and numbers are recovering.
But Kenyan authorities are still extremely wary of the future of the elephant
in Tsavo. The country is very active in seeking a permanent ban on the international
ivory trade. I wish at this point to declare to all that I am a great fan of
the African elephant. I believe this to be the true king of the jungle and not
that overrated pretender, the lion. You may recall from the movie "The Man-eaters
of Tsavo" how cowardly lions disrupted the building of the railway in the Tsavo
area by feeding on the workforce. Would true royalty be involved in such a disgraceful
affair?
Kenya is a year round safari destination. The rains come around April- May and
November-December. This does not however, much affect the travelers' ability
to get around. This is except for the heavily forested Aberdares. In the wet
season the roads in the Aberdares are extremely slippery and the park is at
times actually closed down. Generally the best time to go on safari is over
the drier months when the grass is short and sighting animals is so much easier.
But in areas such as the Mara, the animals are so plentiful that you are going
to see lots of them regardless of the season. The peak tourist season falls
around January to February and July to August. April to June is the low season
and prices for accommodation in the lodges can be as much as 40% lower than
in the high season.
Accommodation on safari varies from basic camping to luxury lodges and tented
camps. Out there in the bush, you will be pleasantly surprised that all the
trimmings of 5 star accommodations are available. But if you want to rough it
out, you will find campsites in almost all the game reserves and national parks.
Info on Kenya
hotels, lodges & resorts accommodation options is available online.
It is generally recommended to take an escorted Kenya
safari tour package that includes transport, park fees and accommodation.
The reason for this is that the tour guides are usually well versed about the
animals, where to find them and how to get there and have other such useful
local knowledge. Have a look at some offers of various durations and budgets.
But if you have a lot of time and need more freedom as you get around, then
hire a vehicle in either Nairobi or Mombasa. For Kenya
car rental there is a choice between self-drive and chauffer driven
vehicles. On safari, wear light cottons and linen. Warmer clothing is needed
for the evenings and for your early morning game drive. Some rainwear is advisable
between March and June and October and December.
You should bring along a decent pair of sunglasses. The glare you experience
in bright tropical light is a new and uncomfortable experience for most. It
is also a good idea to carry a pair of binoculars. They are very useful for
spotting animals and will earn you the envy of your less knowledgeable traveling
companions.
Copyright © Africa
Point
About the Author
Andrew Muigai is editor of AfricaPoint Insider online newsletter. It is part
of AfricaPoint.com- the Africa travel website that has helped thousands of travelers
discover Africa. You can view more info on Kenya
safari and tours at the website.
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